12 Building a Roombox (with a Dremel Trio)

Fini

3 weeks work...

The strip of wood at the bottom was cut with a coarse band saw blade

to create a rough stone (granite?) effect.  And its top edge is beveled.

The sign was a bit floppy so I added brackets.

11 Building a Roombox (with a Dremel Trio)

Filled in & sanded (top not glued)

Filled in & sanded windows & grilles.  (All the acrylics are removable)

Hinged doors & transom, plus chain.

Added raised panels to doors & under windows.

Added small brackets to front & large bracket on each side (top not glued)

Tada!!

Added 3rd molding across top

...will probably do the sides of the box with siding.  Thinking of using black sand paper for the roof?  Then I must decide on the color(s)...??

10 Building a Roombox (with a Dremel Trio)

Sign almost finished - just need to add some decorations. Grilles done. Still need to add a few brackets, panels below windows & on doors, hinge transom & doors...

9 Building a Roombox (with a Dremel Trio)

Dry fit for the windows, doors & panels.  (the plastic film is still on the windows)
I need to trim & adjust the positioning then add the grilles.

Max gives his nod of approval!

...getting an idea of what the grilles will look like.  Also stuck the door handles on.  All temporary :)

8 Building a Roombox (with a Dremel Trio)

Finished the front facade.

Tomorrow I'll start the window sashes, panels under the windows & the double door.  I need to look through my stash for hinges & a small chain for the transom & may be some magnets.

The window sashes, panels & doors will be made from strip wood that I will groove on one edge to insert the plastic windows &/or wood panels. 

7 Building a Roombox (with a Dremel Trio)

Bought some full size molding at Home Depot to slice into brackets.  These 2 were sold by the foot so I only bought 1 foot ea.  The slices are about 1/4" wide.
I think I like them :)

Here is the dry fit of the store front.  Its entirely made up of Tiny Trim.  The 2 outer fluted columns will be routed to curve around the sides.

The top & bottom look a bit bowed - I guess I was too close with camera :)

6 Building a Roombox (with a Dremel Trio)

One idea for making brackets

Took a piece of 3/4" poplar & routed the edges using two different bits.

Left: TR621 3/16” Carbide Beading Bit

            Right: TR627 1/8” Carbide Roman Ogee Bit

Cut (rip) the routed board in halves.

Slice (cross-cut) 1/4" pieces

Put the two brackets together or use separately.  Flip them around for different styles.

Or layered - as Idske commented in a previous post.

Or you can buy full size molding which comes in assorted profiles & slice them with a saw & miter box.  Home Depot

The ones with a carved or embossed design can be sliced evenly in between the decorations to create a more sculptured or carved look.

Here I sliced embossed Tiny Trim into brackets - the 1st 3 are from the same molding.  The one on the far right looks more like a small shelf - maybe use it to hold a plant on the wall?

5 Building a Roombox with a Dremel Trio

Final drawing. Decided on double doors. Not sure about the brackets - will have to experiment with the Dremel Trio router bits. 

The inner frame is now glued together.  Still needs a bit of sanding.

I'm figuring out how to make all the finished parts for the front. I might use Tiny Trim for some of the moldings?

4 Building a Roombox with a Dremel Trio

Tentative storefront facade.  (not showing sign above)

Inner frame (dry fit). This is the section of the storefront that friction fits into the box.  The decorative or finished front will be glue to this frame.  

I used lap & dado joints for stronger construction.

3 Building a Roombox with a Dremel Trio

Playing around with different designs:

After I rout some moldings & brackets, etc.  I can mix & match & layer them to see what I like.




Other bits for the Dremel Trio:

TR626 1/2" Straight bit (carbide)
part of 3 pc TR750 set

TR750 5pc  Specialty set (carbide)

• TR627 1/8" Roman Ogee bit (carbide) Use for moldings/brackets?
• TR631 1/8" Corner Rounding bit (carbide) Use for moldings/brackets?
• TR624 1/2" V-Groove bit (carbide) Use for fluted moldings/brackets?
• TR629 3/8" Dovetail bit (carbide)
• TR628 1/4" Rabbet bit (carbide)

I'll try to use the TR624 V-Groove bit & a straight-edge to create flat fluted columns.

TR770 5pc Starter set (carbide)

• TR621 3/16" Beading bit (carbide) Use for moldings/brackets?
• TR623 1/4" Cove bit (carbide) Use for moldings/brackets?
• TR620 1/4" Flush Trim bit (carbide) 
• TR632 1/4" Chamfer bit (carbide) 45 degree bevels.
• TR622 1/4" Round Nose bit (carbide) Use for moldings/brackets/gutters??

2 Building a Roombox with a Dremel Trio

Well I bought a 5 mm 24" x 48" piece of lauan plywood for $6.33.  So the plywood for this roombox costs: $3.87.  

Actual thickness is 0.196". That's slightly over 0.1875" (3/16"), but they call it 1/4", LOL!  

I cut the parts out with the Trio, a cutting bit & a straight-edge. 

1 Back: 10"h x 12.2"w
2 Sides: 10"d x 12.4"h
2 Top/bottom: 10"d x 10.2"w

Notice the back height is equal to the depth of the other parts - all are 10". This is one less adjustment or measurement to make when ripping the parts.

I used the 1/4" straight bit to make the groove for the back which is slightly wider than the plywood. But I'll fix that later.**

I cut  a 1/4" groove in the top, sides & bottom.  I cut the groove half the thickness of the plywood, about 3/32" deep, & about a 1/4" from the edge.  

Using the chamfer bit I beveled the edges of the same 4 parts.  

I sanded down a 1/4" x 3/8" piece of basswood to use as a trim on the front of the roombox. That is sanded 1/4" down to 0.196 to match plywood thickness. I rabbeted it 1/10" deep & about 1/16" on each side creating a tongue. Then on the front edge of each of the 4 parts I cut a centered 1/16" groove to accept the basswood trim. 
Sorry I used a mini table saw for that.  If Dremel made 1/16" straight bit for the Trio I would have used it. I guess you could just glue basswood w/o the tongue & groove.  And you could use a standard piece of stripwood for the trim.

Dry fitting sides, top & bottom around back - which is fitted into groove.

Back fitted snugly.

Dry fitted front. (showing masking tape holding box together)

Time to glue:

Make sure the grooved side of each piece is aligned to the straight-edge.  Then with masking tape tightly apply the tape while pulling the parts together - keeping them aligned to straight-edge.

Carefully flip over the assembly.  Notice that the grooved edges are all aligned at the bottom.

Apply glue to all the bevels & grooves.

Close up of glued areas.

Fold the sides, top & bottom around the back & tightly tape the top & side to complete the box.

Wipe off any glue squeeze-out.

All seams cleaned.

Turn the box with the back facing up & **apply weight to the back to push it down to make it tight & flush on the inside. Remove the weight only if you're using clamps ** 

I clamped all the sides & put some extra tape here & there.

After the box has dried - glue & tape down the front trim.

Box almost finished - just need to check for any gaps, if so I'll need to do some filling & a bit of light sanding.

Not too shabby for lauan!

A sliding plexiglas front could be fitted at this point, but I think I'll do a storefront instead.  It will fit snugly & will be removable.