Note: To see all the posts about 'New System', under Labels click New System
River Rock (or Fieldstone)
|The eye-dropper idea works great! I used Water Putty, as the can says, "Sticks, stays put, will not shrink." I poured some putty out & added water with the eye-dropper, while stirring. Found the consistency that worked for me was like pea soup. I placed the putty filled eye-dropper on the wood sample & pulled the eye-dropper in a whirling or zigzag motion. If you get too close to another "stone" they will blob together. Not a pretty sight, but you can just scrape off the mistake & try again.|
When you're done put a bit of hot water in a can or some disposable container & squeeze the eye-dropper in the water repeated to clean it. You could run it under a faucet but I don't know if you want plaster clogging up your drains...
Now I'll watch the stones dry...or 2nd thought maybe I'll go do something else...they might collapse or something as they dry...?
|This was my 1st attempt which includes all the air bubbles & blobs. So I thought I would sacrifice this one 1st by painting it. Some of the stones are flat on top because I had to sand off the little whipped cream wavy thingys (this batch was too thick.) The next step would be to seal the rock color then fill in with the mortar. I'll use the "Water Putty" again, but this time mixed with a warm medium dark gray acrylic. |
I'm using water putty because that's what I have on hand...
Scratch-built cross-buck door. The cross & the triangles are glued onto a 1/16" wood panel (about the same thickness as the plastic window,) & the panel is fitting into the grooves of the door rails & stiles. I sanded the triangles for a rounded edge.
|Stair construction - the treads & the railing will be walnut, the rest will be white or cream. I'll be using Housework's balusters as I can't seem to make exact duplicates on my wood lathe.|
|Exploded drawing - the construction is similar to a real staircase, with some modifications. The risers are dadoed for strength & to make it easier to attach to the stringers (see next drawing.) The risers are on top of the treads - on a real staircase the riser rest on the stringers. I changed this because it was easier to round off the tread all the way so it returned back to the open stringer (see last drawing.) The riser has a decorative edge as not to show the end grain. The stairs have a 45 degree angle which makes the balusters easier to cut. I'll probably use toothpicks for the dowels. The railing has a groove on the underside to accept the balusters & (spacing) fillets. The stringers are all cut at the same time by setting my mini table saw to 45 degrees & cutting the stringers stacked & taped together on edge using a stop block...|
|Dadoed riser, also showing decorative end grain.|
|Showing tread bullnose wrap around returning near decorative end of riser. That's a nice looking staircase : )|
Parts of the window: Old CD jewel case cut down, the rails & stiles of the sash, & the grilles interior / exterior. The sash is grooved to accept the glazing & dadoed for the grilles. The wood is maple.
The sash & grilles are glued together.
The top of the sash is grooved & the grilles are glued in place.
...then I slide the plastic glazing into place & just repeat 4 more times : )
Interior view with (pop in/out) poster board cut-outs. Need to do the interior casings/half frames. Then figure out the partition placement so I can paint/wallpaper the walls.
Exterior shaping up.
I think I've found my construction method. Building one wall at a time is less overwhelming & much more gratifying. I can see each wall evolve to some sort of finished state - which in turn gives me the incentive to keep going : )
Next I have to tackle the door...not sure what design to use. Although its a 3" door it looks narrow to me. I think its because of the wide casing & large flanking windows.
Googling door images....