Monday, April 16, 2012

Modular stick built collapsible dollhouse: PART IX

Switching hats...

To see entire project click here

In the previous post the dollhouse shell was completed now I will put on my customer/kit-builder cap & pretend I just received my new Mike's Miniatures Dollhouse kit in the mail. 

We'll assume I've already assembled/disassembled the dollhouse & checked that all the parts are present & accounted for. (see previous post for assembly photos)

  1. I guess the 1st step would be to figure out what this little 8" x 12" house will become...hmmm? I'll skip this step for now & regret it later, LOL.
  2. All the window(s), door(s) & any other components related to cutouts should be available for measuring.
  3. Lets say you want two windows on the left (gable) side of the house.  Place the left wall section - frame side up, on a clean work surface. Place your 1st floor window, frame side down, on the wall where you would like it to go. With a pencil mark the outer corners of the window frame not the trim. Do the same with 2nd floor window. Note that the packaging usually has the cutout or fits opening dimensions which is exactly what we want. 

Window placement.
The great thing about this kit is - you can work on any section of the dollhouse, through to completion if you like, with easy access, flat (easy to cut) pieces & with a good light/magnifier - excellent working conditions that should enhance productivity & imagination!  And you can buy your own mat board & strip wood for added sections.
sorry for the commercial

Approximate pencil marks for 1st floor window.  Looks like I'll center this window all around. Also you could assemble the dollhouse to better configure your cutout placement - then disassemble the dollhouse & start here.
Math alert!

Okay the width between the studs is 7-1/2" & the height between floor supports is 9-3/8". The window's fits opening dimensions are: 2-9/16"w x 5-1/16"h. 

How far from left? 
1/2 - 2 9/16 = 4 15/16 / 2 = 15/32.

How far from the 1st floor support?
9 3/8 - 5 1/16 = 4 5/16 / 2 = 2 5/32. 

From the 5 pack of studs for the [left wall, 1st floor] take out 2.  They will be the vertical support for the window. They do not need to be cut.

From the extra strip wood pack take one of the 1/4" x 1/8" studs & cut (2) 2-9/16" pieces, this is the fits opening width. They are for the horizontal framing above & below the window.

Then from the 1st floor studs pack cut (2) 2-1/32" pieces, they are for the vertical studs above & below the window.  2 5/32 above & below window - 1/8 thickness of cross studs = 2 1/32".

The frame should be glued as a unit separate from the wall - do not glue to mat board - use a gluing jig or at least a square to align framing.

The window fits in the stud frame !

As I said before if you glue together the window stud frame as a unit it can be moved anywhere on this wall or any wall on the 1st floor.  

Just a thought: All the pencil lines, glue & smudges will be sealed inside the walls - maybe we could put a time capsule in there?  Could be on a future episode of 'If Walls Could Talk' ! :)

If this is it for the cutouts in this area - then this is how the wall will look before the electrical & interior mat board are added.

Speaking of electrical: Say we want a outlet here, then the back of the 1st floor support needs to be dadoed or notched to accept the wiring. This is why the floor supports are not glued in place.  And do NOT glue them in yet - you might want a sconce, lantern or power to the 2nd floor!

Voilá !

I added a scratch-built basement window.  Its just some simple strip wood parts & a piece of Plexiglas or an old plastic CD/DVD jewel case.

2nd floor window vertical position: you must think ahead because you might have exterior trim near the roof or brackets, etc. that the window may interfere with.
Note: The 2nd floor studs are mitered - the 2 center ones need to be moved outward slightly for the window to fit correctly - they can be angle cut at the top or they can be cut squarely at bottom - don't have to get out the miter saw for the latter.  

I think I'll commit to this framing.  Next - I'll just glue the framing for around the windows to the mat board.  I'll let it dry then cut out the openings.  
See previous post for similar cut out instructions.
Cut-outs done on this wall.  The basement window doesn't have any trim because concrete, brick or stone will create the border, & the sill can be wood, stone or brick. be continued...

...On the Verge of a Nervous Breakthrough...

All photos & images created by me on this blog are the property of Mike's Miniatures - copyright 2012

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