In the previous post the dollhouse shell was completed now I will put on my customer/kit-builder cap & pretend I just received my new Mike's Miniatures Dollhouse kit in the mail.
We'll assume I've already assembled/disassembled the dollhouse & checked that all the parts are present & accounted for. (see previous post for assembly photos)
- I guess the 1st step would be to figure out what this little 8" x 12" house will become...hmmm? I'll skip this step for now & regret it later, LOL.
- All the window(s), door(s) & any other components related to cutouts should be available for measuring.
- Lets say you want two windows on the left (gable) side of the house. Place the left wall section - frame side up, on a clean work surface. Place your 1st floor window, frame side down, on the wall where you would like it to go. With a pencil mark the outer corners of the window frame not the trim. Do the same with 2nd floor window. Note that the packaging usually has the cutout or fits opening dimensions which is exactly what we want.
|Approximate pencil marks for 1st floor window. Looks like I'll center this window all around. Also you could assemble the dollhouse to better configure your cutout placement - then disassemble the dollhouse & start here.|
Okay the width between the studs is 7-1/2" & the height between floor supports is 9-3/8". The window's fits opening dimensions are: 2-9/16"w x 5-1/16"h.
How far from left?
7 1/2 - 2 9/16 = 4 15/16 / 2 = 2 15/32.
How far from the 1st floor support?
9 3/8 - 5 1/16 = 4 5/16 / 2 = 2 5/32.
From the 5 pack of studs for the [left wall, 1st floor] take out 2. They will be the vertical support for the window. They do not need to be cut.
From the extra strip wood pack take one of the 1/4" x 1/8" studs & cut (2) 2-9/16" pieces, this is the fits opening width. They are for the horizontal framing above & below the window.
Then from the 1st floor studs pack cut (2) 2-1/32" pieces, they are for the vertical studs above & below the window. 2 5/32 above & below window - 1/8 thickness of cross studs = 2 1/32".
|The frame should be glued as a unit separate from the wall - do not glue to mat board - use a gluing jig or at least a square to align framing.|
|The window fits in the stud frame !|
|If this is it for the cutouts in this area - then this is how the wall will look before the electrical & interior mat board are added.|
|I think I'll commit to this framing. Next - I'll just glue the framing for around the windows to the mat board. I'll let it dry then cut out the openings. |
See previous post for similar cut out instructions.
|Cut-outs done on this wall. The basement window doesn't have any trim because concrete, brick or stone will create the border, & the sill can be wood, stone or brick.|
|I wanted another outlet on the 2nd floor, so I added wiring. Both floor supports are notched in back on the right side.|
Let the decorating begin!
|Exterior woodwork just about done...well on the left wall.|
|Interior wall covered with bead board, baseboard & mat board (plaster.) Need to wallpaper upper half of 1st floor wall before attaching chair rail & crown molding. Notice the bead board & the mat board are flush - window covers nicely...|
|I will attach a gingerbread board between the 1st & 2nd floor. Then I need to paint all the woodwork - then glue all the siding down.|
Got to go buy some paint & wiring...& maybe print some wallpaper!!
|B&W photo closeup showing wallpaper, chair rail & bead board.|
Paint & wallpaper...
|The darker shade is a grayish-olive, the lighter is the same hue but lighten with white.|
I need to put some kind of block type decoration on the corner trim where the two colors meet.
I used the lighter exterior color on the interior woodwork & printed the B&W wallpaper design on cream colored paper - added a grey stripe behind some of the pattern to soften it a bit?
|1st floor, made from a real life size floor board, gum wood, I think. Sliced into 1/16" thick strips. The floor boards are 1/4" wide @ 1/12 scale = 3", staggered @ 2" or 24" scale. I used wood glue then set weight on overnight. And finally I sanded .|
|Added 3 coats butcher's block wax/condition. Won't be quite as shiny when it dries.|
Wallpaper glued. Window casing, crown molding & chair rail dry fitted. I made the corner blocks out of wood with a molded flower design made from polymer clay.
I'm thinking of adding a faux tin ceiling??
Started front wall:
The archway is cut out. Above arch added 5.5mm plywood + poster board to = 1/4" thickness, cut on band saw, will finish with inside trim (veneer or poster board.) String between window & archway for outdoor & entry wiring.
Did an old painted floor upstairs - needs more sanding tho.
Opening on the right is for spiral staircase.
|Framing & windows done in main section. Need to do entry addition & wrought iron spiral staircase. Thats all, LOL...|
|Inspirational photo. elite spiral stairs |
Now all I need to do is make some kind of mold to cast each of the 15 steps I'll need :) The railing can be made from a heavy gauge wire & the balusters maybe twisted wire, solder it all together & presto - Victorian staircase!
This is only a mock up of the spiral staircase. Cut mat board treads (wedges), used hole punch to fit them over 3/16" dowel... Its not as big & intrusive as I thought it might be...
Finished siding on main house, starting entry
Dollhouse handmade scratch scratch-built scratch-build
...On the Verge of a Nervous Breakthrough...
All photos & images created by Mike's Miniatures on this blog are the property of Mike's Miniatures - copyright 2012