Monday, March 18, 2013

2 Building a Roombox with a Dremel Trio

Well I bought a 5 mm 24" x 48" piece of lauan plywood for $6.33.  So the plywood for this roombox costs: $3.87.  

Actual thickness is 0.196". That's slightly over 0.1875" (3/16"), but they call it 1/4", LOL!  

I cut the parts out with the Trio, a cutting bit & a straight-edge. 

1 Back: 10"h x 12.2"w
2 Sides: 10"d x 12.4"h
2 Top/bottom: 10"d x 10.2"w

Notice the back height is equal to the depth of the other parts - all are 10". This is one less adjustment or measurement to make when ripping the parts.

I used the 1/4" straight bit to make the groove for the back which is slightly wider than the plywood. But I'll fix that later.**

I cut  a 1/4" groove in the top, sides & bottom.  I cut the groove half the thickness of the plywood, about 3/32" deep, & about a 1/4" from the edge.  

Using the chamfer bit I beveled the edges of the same 4 parts.  


I sanded down a 1/4" x 3/8" piece of basswood to use as a trim on the front of the roombox. That is sanded 1/4" down to 0.196 to match plywood thickness. I rabbeted it 1/10" deep & about 1/16" on each side creating a tongue. Then on the front edge of each of the 4 parts I cut a centered 1/16" groove to accept the basswood trim. 
Sorry I used a mini table saw for that.  If Dremel made 1/16" straight bit for the Trio I would have used it. I guess you could just glue basswood w/o the tongue & groove.  And you could use a standard piece of stripwood for the trim.

Dry fitting sides, top & bottom around back - which is fitted into groove.

Back fitted snugly.

Dry fitted front. (showing masking tape holding box together)
Time to glue:


Make sure the grooved side of each piece is aligned to the straight-edge.  Then with masking tape tightly apply the tape while pulling the parts together - keeping them aligned to straight-edge.

Carefully flip over the assembly.  Notice that the grooved edges are all aligned at the bottom.

Apply glue to all the bevels & grooves.

Close up of glued areas.



Fold the sides, top & bottom around the back & tightly tape the top & side to complete the box.
Wipe off any glue squeeze-out.

All seams cleaned.

Turn the box with the back facing up & **apply weight to the back to push it down to make it tight & flush on the inside. Remove the weight only if you're using clamps ** 

I clamped all the sides & put some extra tape here & there.

After the box has dried - glue & tape down the front trim.

Box almost finished - just need to check for any gaps, if so I'll need to do some filling & a bit of light sanding.
Not too shabby for lauan!

A sliding plexiglas front could be fitted at this point, but I think I'll do a storefront instead.  It will fit snugly & will be removable. 






2 comments:

  1. Hello Mike,
    What a great post. Thank you for the tutorial. I very much like your technique. the box looks very solid.
    Hugs,
    Giac

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    Replies
    1. Thanks Giac! Yes it IS very solid. The front opening is a bit flexible right now, but once the facade is in place it should be strong.

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