Update: Last time we were in mini-ville I had dribbled river rocks on to the luan plywood foundation - looked good until they started falling off. Apparently the foundation warped & when I weighed it down some of the rocks didn't like the change & popped off! Next time I will mix glue into the Water Putty. Yu think?!
I re-did the foundation in a textured finish, in a warm grey & used the 1st porch I made. We decorated this 'facade thing' as a Xmas display for the local hospital & someone actually bought it?!
So I think I'll stay away from decorating for awhile & concentrate on design & construction of dollhouse shells!
To see entire project under LABELS click New System2
|The possibilities are endless...|
the kit builder would add their own components, including a porch & a couple of dormers.
I'm going back to my mat board & stick design as the luan plywood is problematic. I'm currently building all the jigs for the connectors I'll need. I liked the sliding dovetail joint but found it difficult to make so I've come up with a simpler design.
The dollhouse is stick built with either 1/16" mat board or wood veneer as a skin. The finished walls are 3/8", but I made the floors 5/8" thick as I thought they needed to be bit more beefy.
My idea is that I build the outer frame & glue the mat board to the exterior. Then the customer or 'kit builder' glues on the precut studs, joists & rafters & with a craft knife cuts out all the openings. This allows total freedom to place doors, windows, skylights, etc. whatever size or style & wherever desired. And two simple hand tools: a craft or utility knife & a razor saw w/miter box.
The walls, floors & roof can be assembled/disassembled in minutes. Also, I think I've come up with an easy way to electrify the dollhouse using a circuit board & computer ribbon cables & connectors. See below:
|Ribbon wire plugged into circuit board, other end cut off & attached to wall wiring.|
|Contact happens between the floor joist & floor support where the bronze bands are wrapped or pinned?|
House Rules? This dollhouse building system allows the kit builder to choose the size of the house within the following parameters:
- Rectangular or square floor plan, no pop outs, dormers, etc. Although commercial dormers, bay windows, etc. can be added. And I think I could easily design additions to the gable side(s) using the same system.
- Gable style 'A' roof with a 45° pitch. Most commercial dormers I believe are 45°. I may add 30° & 60° pitch in the future? 30/60 adds gambrel & mansard roofs!
- Maximum interior dimensions: 15-1/2"d x 19-1/2"w x 20-1/8"h. Why these dimensions? Because I'm buying 16" x 20" mat board by the case from Golden State Art - A1 company, good prices & free shipping! What's not to like...
Construction from the ground up:
|(4) Base plates|
|(8) Corner posts|
|(8) Floor supports|
|(1) Front roof connector|
|(4) Gable end rafters|
|(4) Roof end connectors|
|Cross members: (2) Ridge connectors & spline; (2) [Back cutout frame; Front eaves frame]|
|(8) T-joists & (2) Back sills|
|Roof edge trim|
|Exterior mat board|
|The kit builder adds precut studs. The studs would be positioned around window & door openings. Joists around stairwells & rafters around skylights or chimneys, etc.|
|Then the kit builder adds the interior mat board.|
Obviously someone forgot to cut out the openings for this house - hmmm jail house?
|Then the interior mat board is glued in place, dried, then the interior mat board is trimmed from the outside using the same method as above.|
Assembled in sections:
|Place the front wall to the corner connector of the left wall then insert locking spline.|
See detail below:
(click to enlarge)
|Repeat with right wall.|
|Slide in floors.|
|Lock back to sides with splines.|
|Add front roof.|
All photos & images created by me on this blog are the property of Mike's Miniatures - copyright 2012